"Dear family “Carsten1972”, welcome to Frederics Best of Menu at Coeur d’artichaut, Münster, on 30. December 2021. I'm glad they're here! This evening we were greeted at the address of the “cda” at the old fish market in the city centre of Münster shortly before 7 p.m. Actually, we wanted to spend the last night of the year there, but who comes too late (we middle of September), who punished life and with us was that we came an evening before New Year's Eve to Münster. The restaurant for New Year's Eve was booked in the middle of the year, so there was only room one night before. On these two evenings Frédéric Morel offered a Best of Menu of the Year 2022. My wife and I agreed that should be our culinary finals. Because the menu was a special one, the menu had to be ordered to the full extent, changes in the number or type of courses were not possible. That was completely okay for my wife and me, we know we appreciate the kitchen of the “cda”. In addition, we received an email 14 days before the date of our reservation, asking for consent to the following booking conditions in order to make the confirmation effective. Quote from the mail: Today we would like to inform you about the cancellation conditions that apply to your reservation for these days. If the restaurants are not officially closed to limit the coronavirus, free cancellation is possible for your reservation up to 27.12.2021. From 28.12.2021 we will have to charge you a cancellation fee of 100€ per person, we should not be able to pass on your table. We ask you sincerely and politely to understand this measure. The goods for the Best of Menu are extremely complex and cost-intensive in the purchase, the tables of spontaneous cancellations are almost impossible for us to redeem in these days and the costs could in the worst case exceed the revenues of an evening. Therefore, in these times we cannot offer you a free cancellation after 28.12.2021 and ask courteously to confirm the receipt of our mail and accept these terms in writing (responding to this mail is sufficient). This was not a problem for us in view of some drastic experiences in no shows in restaurants, of which we had received knowledge in recent weeks. Unfortunately, it is no longer different to become a master of this unfitness of unreliable guests. Our evening in the “cda” was no longer in the way. I no longer need to describe the ambience, see the reports that have already been prepared from recent years. We were received in front of the actual guest room. The dressing room was removed, the vaccination check was done, then we were led to our table right in front of the pass. This table was especially pleased with me, from a distance of 2 meters I was able to follow the events around Frédéric Morel and his sous chief Pascal Hinkelammert in the open kitchen. The team has grown further and a total of 5 chefs implement the ideas from the boss. We also welcomed Nils Halfpap, Restaurant Manager and Sommelier in the “cda”. With two colleagues he takes care of the welfare of the guests. At some point in the spring there will be a change, Nils Halfpap will then take care of another gastronomic project by Frédéric Morel, also located in the courtyard on the old fish market. If it goes, it'll be reported, I promise. As an aperitif, Nils Halfpap offered a very special champagne in view of the special menu. Frank John, well-known winemaker from the Palatinate, owner of the Hirschhorner Hof winery, has let some bottles of his Riesling Brut sink on the coast of Britt and they were allowed to mature there for a few long years, were raised again with considerable seapox growth and found their way to Münster. I was very tempted to taste a glass of this champagne, but my wife had already spied the name Clouet on a champagne label and so a 2009 brut dream vintage found the way to our table in two glasses. The water is charged via a flat-rate and the small bottle is refilled over the evening. A system that I very much appreciate, given the prices that some restaurants call for their table water. With the first drinks we also welcomed the kitchen. A short comment on the way in which I introduce these passages. In principle, the chefs always serve and present their courses personally at the table. This is not limited to repeating the information on the map, but it is presented to the last detail everything that makes up the plate and the culinary ideas behind it. This leads to a fill of facts that can only be stored with dictator or notebook. But I don't want to do that, and I feel it doesn't make sense. That's why I'm more likely to describe emotional details that stick out when eating the gears. Prolog 1 Prolog 2 Prolog 3 Greeting one was a Umani “Orgie” with mushroom and mushroom as the basis. Incredibly the mouth-filling aromas that occurred during consumption. It became fresher by gently marinated chars that had fresh herbal aromas as a companion. Third part was an interpretation of “croque monsieur”, but very free. Truffles smelled irresistibly over the table, to which the classic ingredients belonged. My favorite was the first Amuse Gueule. Our champagne accompanies the dishes to the finest. We had decided against the wine tour offered and ordered a first bottle of wine from Burgundy from the well-stocked wine map. Grand vin de Bourgogne Bis Gang 3 or 4 we promised a good accompaniment from this Chardonnay. The kitchen then brought home-baked bread, accompanied by salt butter and an algae butter. Bread selection Butter, salt and alge Hinten a green bread with algae as aroma, high-edged bread with a lot of cumin, my wife, native of swabs reminded of Kimmicher (Non-Subbs please googlen), in front a bread intensively mixed with aromas of rock mushroom. I had no favorites, all 3 variants liked me well. The wine came to the table, was opened by Nils Halfpap and wife tasted him. Of course, a nap, something else with a burgundy. I was also allowed to try, I think a certain gentleman from Bremen would be very happy to enjoy this wine. The first walk from the actual menu was then also served. This course came from the menu of June 2022, which we had already on the 20th. June 2021 at a lunch menu outside the farm. Gang 1 Zander, celery, Dill, there I hadn't taken a photo of in the summer, so in December, I could take a photo of the gang. Fresh aromas remained in memory, with the realization that Zander is a really great fish for raw preparation. Frédéric himself served and explained the course, the sauce was poured at the table. Dill was a theme at the ice, celery contributed heartliness, algae with bubbles (see picture) brought disintegrating crunch and iodineiness into incredibly many different flavors. Fermentation and garnish in the salt coat always play a role in dishes by Frédéric Morel. So also at the next court, Bretonian lobster, Gurke, Kaffir Limette. Gang 2 The lobster tail, halved, remained in memory in its pure and very gentle cooking. It was just glassy, wonderfully gentle in its quality. Cucumber aroma and acid complemented it with the finest and without the lobster. It's a very gracious gang, a fragrant one. A true highlight in the menu. Gang 3 Not so grazil was Gang 3. Breton stone butt, Alba truffle, Maitake were ingredients that can not be combined with grazilen flavors. Through my seat right on the pass it was easy to track how complex the design of the dishes of the menu was. And at the latest when my wife counted how many plank chips from the white truffle landed on our two plates (to calm down, for both equals), we waited for a moment. In the plate there was an intensive poultry jus, which was added because the kitchen was reminded of poultry meat at the Maitake and that wanted to emphasize with the Jus. The common rattle sponge, German name of the Maitake, had been baked and tasted very well in combination with the jus and the truffle. We'll reap it in our own forest soon, now that I know how good it tastes. And all this still did not make it possible to put the leading actor Steinbutt in the background. Excuse me, just horny plate! After the very good fish, my absolute favorite followed this evening. Gang 4 cauliflower, bergamot, Osietra caviar was the simple description for this tasteful sensation! What you can't see on the plate floor was a puree, on it a soft onsen egg, roasted cauliflower came also, recognizable on the photo. Fresh cuts from fermented cauliflower, a simple sensation of the Beurre blanc, refined with Bergamotte and a parsley oil. Above it an Osietra caviar of a very high quality! Overall, this was the number one for me this evening, despite everything that had already been served and should come. With this passage the first glass of one of our favorite wines from the wine card of the “cda”. The right side Rhone 2017, winery Alain Voge, southern Rhone, 100% Marsanne, 24 months barrique, very close to Hermitage wines! We love him and he's always part of our drink shop. The bottle had been opened with the first wine and could then breathe in a decanter. It also went into the main course with this wine. Gang 5 Sous chief Pascal Hinkelammert served us Challan's duck, fennel, cherry. The fennel had been cooked in the salt coat, a puree was also added to the duck. Under the impeccably garden duck breast, sous vide cooked before, then sharply fried on the Teppanyaki to get the fat out of the skin, a jus to the fingernail. Cherry was on it, even since the harvest, as well as cherry blossoms and some other co-actors, which Pascal still mentioned. In total, this gave a very good poultry plate. The spectrum of aromas went from roasted aromas, saltiness, to sweetness....very balanced overall. Five of seven passages were history and we both at the table were very happy about the offered. So now to the gang that our Bremer Senior Rezensent must always have. Gang 6 Blue Stilton, Grape, Nuss were on the plate. Unfortunately, I was only able to photograph when the dishes from the kitchen had already been destroyed. I hope the sight is still okay. I have to admit honestly, I think that was the first time I had eaten this English blue cheese. At the cheese dealer of my choice it always runs out on Fourme d’ambert or bleu d’auvergne, or otherwise on the endless number of French cheeses. I tasted the combination of a certain saltiness and sharpness of the cheese paired with the sweetness of grape and nut good! Overall, however, the most aromaticly inconspicuous walk in this menu. The dessert was still missing. Gang 7 The sight reveals it, chocolate was the theme, with noble companions. Mont blanc, Marone, Pear, Perigord truffles. The Bretone closes its Best of Menu 2021! Sin, cried that plate, sin so shortly after Christmas! Do you want to complete your culinary year 2021? I want to, I cried back! There's truffles in there! Then we were through with the actual menu, and as always the kitchen let the menu end with the epilogue, three small dishes were served together, while in the kitchen was already cleansed and cleaned, also by the boss, very lonely! Epilog 1 Epilog 2 Epilog 3, the Eucalyptus bang As always all well, as always, these little culminations suffer from being mentally closed with the menu. Of course, Frederics signature dish, served at all menus throughout the year! Eucalyptus combined with raspberries and very, very special! After that, nothing went into food, only an espresso had to be. Throughout the evening kitchen crew and service team took care of us exemplary and always attentive. You don’t need to lose a word about kindness, the atmosphere you enjoy as a guest in the coeur d’artichaut, is concentrated and always easy, casual, with a friendly smile and a lot of connection with the guest. It's not better than here, I love it! Ms. Morel was not there this evening, and the reason was that there will soon be a small Breton in Münster. I wish the little family and, above all, Mrs Morel all the best for the coming days, better than this cannot start a year, I think! Because it was so nice, we didn't like to go yet, even though we were one of the last guests present again. With Frederic and Nils, the wine tour was discussed again and that resulted in a glass of Alvarinho Terramatter being tasted in 2019 by WG Soalheira as well as a wine from Chateau Bel Air Lagrave, Moulis en Medoc from 1988, after which we were really ready to travel back and bed! As always a beautiful evening in the coeur d’artichaut, so the conclusion can be loud. I like kitchen style and restaurant philosophy very well! I can only recommend to anyone if he should be in Münster. PS our table is reserved for New Year 2022. Let's hope that we can enjoy such a wonderful evening again! PPS so it was that culinary year 2021. With the report of the last meal from 2021, new year 2022 begins. I wish all readers the best for the new year!"
Muenster
