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"I had tried to spontaneously get a place at Michelin Star Square since 2016, always unsuccessful. what should be found in the ingenious French cuisine of patron andreas saul and the extremely relaxed location, and probably also in the fact that in the former döner grill on the trendy torstraße there are only 18 seats in the usual sitting places. ok, sometimes even an old borgfelder learns new tricks or bypasses with the reservation system. when entering (a low level due to the heavy, wind resistant curtain, previous use is still clearly visible. the left side of the room houses the open kitchen in two rows, and where now chef saul built his star kitchen with a colleague, the baked shops were filled with everything. in the guest room in the middle a small row of two tables with hard two-stream bending, right of it on a mini upheaval a padded wall bench that opens in small corners. on the large table above, the up to eight courses of the evening for international guests are also communicated in English. well for the somewhat sophisticated couple in the corner that not only exchanged intensively about eating, but also photographed and even made notations. from our table we had a good view throughout the room and were able to discover and admire the unusual features that come from the demolished palast of the lower republic and also without ostalgy for technology such as design freaks keep some deceptions ready. In addition, unexpected melancholic Rhythm’n’Blues played. the as unusual as well as harmonic (because not "concept-loaded" overall package has convinced me completely despite or even because of a certain business in the narrow corridors, yes enthusiastic. next time, I'd rather sit on the softer bank. (at the time, not a real outside house business. it is offered a “wine pact”: 5 selected wine discoveries plus a liter garnel frikassée or wild boar blanket from the star kitchen for 200€ in whole Germany the view of the wine card, which has not yet been held by the host alexander Seiser, leaves little wish for my dear, frankly and rieslingly, like a quarter of the time past. how good they can communicate not only the incompatibility in advance digitally, but also preferences. and so, shortly after greeting, a fine chardonnay breathed and I removed the (expected price shock. what is excessive, because the wee calculation seems to be very fair in view of the consistently high quality, especially in the bottles. fortunately, a colleague gave me a short-term undertaking that answers in the rule to the question of the wein “Red, Cuvée”. there was a lockneuf du pape. champagner and elsass (vin de voile)! we visited our liquid France trip glass-by-glass, only madeira fell from the geographic area. not only as sommelier, he made a good figure. always attentive, fleeting, accessible and ready for some informative words he made the service very confident with only occasional help of the kitchen and created a beautiful, hospitable atmosphere. my guess that smaller star restaurants would have to limit the reservation of individual restaurants for economic reasons, he did not want to confirm. not in all accusations made by individual guests for tired mood. in the opposite, spontaneous groups would have been found in bandol together by skillful placement. I can imagine. there was nothing in the service, so even from me the rare 5 stars. the six courses ordered were calculated on average with 109€ in view of products and quantities. the map promised a certain variety: front-street mushroom, estragon, caviar black root, xo, lovers red bete, plant, bone makrele, capuzin root, green strawberry bug, teltowerkäfer, green carved red cabbage, red bete, oystervelouté havelzander, roggen, oxen, oxen the spontaneous request of my companion for as gluten-free eating as possible was also well implemented by the kitchen without being exact. it seems to be prepared, respect. with a creamy caramelized butter (selection! there was a carrot (mixed broth with big crust). the teig was clearly kartoffel, but rather heavy and for me something too salty. as gluten-free variants were added garnel, celery and kartoffeln. the effect made a champignon chip with fresh leaves and very present estragon dust, some caviar wore a traces of salt. Courageous crispy and crispy, I am already. clearly differently applied a probably very long time in many to a rubber-like consistency of grated stripe black root with a crème of the XO sauce, with dried ginger and lover pencil. somewhere comes acid. Courageous, very clear, the chef has cooked several years in ruin at marco müller. the second round was again a fingertip, but much more complex: sunflower seeds, on it a layer redd, above it a marshmallow clear with the taste of the bark brand. painted with a hauch of bierbalsam, remembers old vinegar. Finally, planted by plants with spicy sweetness. very, very sinful. old, someone knows what he does to start the menu, the now often experienced paved macrele, whose fat formed the background for as strong taste as salty seagrass, acidic green earthy, a crispy sharp mayo with capuzin root and a subsequently poured dashi of chicken bones, muscheln and shake. exciting, in other words hardly the following bands, which unfortunately proved to be vegetarian. unfortunately I was very excited about goat meat. so it was “only” cucumber that combined the mexicanically sharply inserted cucumber, beautifully elaborated green cauliflowers in various textures and teltower carpets, which were processed to malty tasting chips. this had a quantity of bite, but also a quantity of acid, which was staged differently here, but ultimately without an interesting counterpart. a photo cannot be found so sad. the next plate came out even without meat. (I assume that vegetarians from the menu choose the meat-free courses, which are then adjusted by the portion size. the kitchen set fermented red cabbage and red bete in various variants (including intensively dehydrated initially “dry” with mushroom sand and saibling kaviar. later a oyster velouté was poured. was mad again, but not so extreme by the other components. but vegetarian, I'm just curious. after the seasonal vegetables I was looking forward to a nice piece of fish. for this wish the local zander had not died free of charge. savoury, with crispy skin and some roggensand, that was already solo 1a. with the again on the table attached forest mushroom tea there was a step higher, especially as a plant juice gel of the Umami bomb gave a small fruity sweet twist. elegantly a small ravioli with a cool roggen cream filling. it is good that also the temperature was used. great plate. the following, strongly roasted foie grass were excellent and were still full-bodied by a sauce of pork. it is good that a crispy calf head chip the saw as well as the smoked apfel parisienne, which naturally also abandoned the necessary acid. quite different, but no less savory was a drain filled with duckenrilette, which left nothing to be desired with hot bear liquor and panko crumble. more ingenious companion for scaling wine juice from German countries, who after more than 40 years also enjoyed some fresh. (what would they be lonely – it is scharzhofberger, stupid! taube polarized. I like the peculiar, slightly metallic taste. it would have been a lot more familiar here, because there was also the heart and in a small gallette the liver was filled with horse and green cabbage. the two tranches on the plate were sous vide, but still cooked with texture and then had the famous röstaroma. to get the full-bodied sauce on the basis of black feet, there were loose book-wool extra! that is not the perfect meat plate. for the sake of completeness, it should be mentioned that the lynx and the sweet acidic rettich are rather tasteless. while my counterpart had cost the cherry, I was looking forward to the processed style ton, which could have been quite stronger, as beside acid cassis, rosmarin also ethereal taste. but that was not unequal, it was only my personal preferences, and they met the bandolists from the torstraße almost perfect. kitchen, service and ambiente again voted everything and came to a wonderful evening. Thank you for that!"