Krone · Pfälzer Stuben

"I have now written five reviews of the return address successfully operated by the Kuntz/Schlindwein family for several generations in the former Hayna tobacco village near Herxheim. At the time of the first report from 2015, Karl-Emil Kuntz was still standing at the stove. For four years, his youngest daughter Erika has been in charge in the Crown. The man who is not only privately at her side, but also leads the kitchen brigade, is Fabio Daneluzzi. As a former student of Kuntz, he stepped into mighty large footsteps and that with then just 25 years. The fact that the heavy culinary burdens would also follow several “seed years” was not to be seen at that time. The consequences of the Corona pandemic with all its inviolabilities and personal care have definitely taken care of one or other sleepless night at the young pair of gastronomics. The fact that the birth of her daughter also fell in that time probably didn't make the nights quieter. But instead of adding small, the operator duo Kuntz-Daneluzzi has reacted and invested. The lockdown helped a high-end pizza oven from Vesuvgestein, the heart of a take-away concept, in which one refreshes on the Italian roots of the chef. Too bad that the incomprehensible tasty pizzas did not in any way get on the map of the Palatinate mares. In addition, the virus was actively offered the forehead with the execution of various vaccinations. However, the largest changes in recent months have experienced the hotel area. With a new indoor pool, 28 newly renovated rooms and the opening of the first CBD spa in Germany with corresponding cannabidiol applications, the crown's accommodation branch has been innovated. This has certainly cost a lot of time, money and power, which means that the further development of the food offer in the Palatinate Stuben remained somewhat on the track. Although a new kitchen block was installed at the beginning of the year, there was not too much on the menu. It is also only slightly altered four years after the departure of the maestro and is still characterized by its handwriting, particularly in meat classics. During the Corona period, the wood-paneled guest rooms were also carefully brought to the forefront. But such efforts often demand their tribute. In this case, it was the culinary prestige object and flagship of the house, the Kronen restaurant, which, unfortunately, could not be reopened since its closure about three years ago. Maybe you can't open it anymore, because the staff simply lacks to put an ambitious star kitchen on your feet. That's why you concentrate on the Palatinate Stuben. The former second place, which was formerly still awarded a Bib Gourmand, has now moved to the first cooking place and it continues to enjoy a great popularity. One has the impression that due to the good utilisation of the hotel of the store, as in ancient times, bulges. The fact that one does not have a particularly hurry to refresh the culinary orientation “Come out on Devil” lies on the hand and then at the guest on the plate. The range of dishes has always been extended to three large-format sides, which are in a folding, apart leather folder. You are still consciously dispensed with their publication on the website. The common crown man knows what he expects for years. And as a newbie, you can be surprised. Personally, I don't think that's bad, because the food selection is something for everyone and you can usually rely on the crown classics. These include various creations from the “Karl-Emil-Kuntz era” such as the Saumagen-Carpaccio on lukewarm white herb salad with chicorée, lentils and potato cubes on cumin vinaigrette, the calf liver on chives or the beef roulade in strong burgundy potatoes with carrots. There are probably enough regulars who look at the crown as a reliable part of their culinary cosmos precisely because of such body and soul dishes. During our visit in mid-June the food repertoire was significantly reduced on the summer map. From six cold appetizers were three. Warm courts were dispensed with – probably due to warm weather – completely. Meat and fish were also much leaner than before, which is not a disadvantage for poorly-determined foods like me. In contrast, prices have increased as expected. Whether inflation-related or corona-related is sometimes there, in comparison to the last visit in November 2019 – i.e. just before the pandemic began – there were increases between 30 and 40 percent in the appetizers, while the main courts did not attract the price. But as mentioned in my headline in summary, the high regional consumption must be seen here as a mixed calculation, because the crown, which was previously known for its phenomenal price-performance ratio, must also face the economic realities of today and also master them. Besides, you still get a lot of money. From the absolutely impeccable, very professional service, to the extraordinarily well-maintained ambience to the small but fine trinations – the legendary amuse, called “cooks from the crown kitchen” continues to exist, even though in a somewhat spangled or, respectively, less saturating variant – one continues to be in the service of cultivated Palatinate hospitality and with an associated portion of regionality. If you want to eat lunch in the Palatinate, you can only do this on Sundays and holidays. We chose the latter option and reserved a table for three people plus baby at Fronleichnam. It was summery warm and so we were able to make it comfortable on the pretty terrace. For the youngest at the table a high chair was quickly worried. The service had no problems to keep an overview despite the kicker from the second-levelist Darmstadt 98, who prepared for the coming season in the sunny Palatinate. In addition to the enjoyable footballers appearing in the unified sports dress, there was a lot of fun on the lasy, green-encased outdoor seat where a pergola protected us from the strong midday sun. Then we sat on a brightly covered table, which populated classic "handicraft" in the form of double cutlery, bread plate including knife, wine glass and pretty folded fabric napkins. The slightly anachronistic substrate made of tin was, of course, not missing as a pleasant table requisite. For thirst, a bottle of mineral water was ordered 6.80 euros, for enjoyment followed a dry cuvée from Weißburgunder, Chardonnay and Grauburgunder called “Weitsicht” 26 euros from Bioland-Weingut Gut from Beiden from Kleinfischlingen, which I had discovered in the excellently sorted bottle wine map. It was drunk with far-sightedness... This compendium still contains almost the complete “Who is Who” of the Palatinate wine scene. And that at fair calculated prices. There is actually the corresponding bottle for every purse. In addition to the standard paddles, an attractive selection of 0.375l bottles is available for car handles and other ascetes. Of course, quite formidable crescents are presented here in the “open execution”, which not only delights the common “Quertrinker”. Regarding the planned intake of solid food, we decided twice for the crunchy leaf salads from the summer market on Sauerrahm-Yoghurt dressing with fresh garlic, tomatoes, raw food, Parmesan and Croutons each 14 Euro . My mother gave up an appetizer. It was completely enough for the culinary delight. In the main courts my wife then really liked it and ordered the calf bags on celery puree and strong Spätburgunder-Jus 29 euros, which were swollen at low temperature. My wife Mama preferred the Ricotta-Spinat-Ravioli in sage butter with 24 months ripened Parmigiano Reggiano 23 Euro, while my strength was in Mediterranean restraint and with fried Black Tiger shrimps preferred 32 Euro. I was curious if my seafood pasta would justify the quite sporty price. But first, we were filled with rustic sourdough bread and a few baguette slices with spiced crust salt-peffer mix. Bread from the bakery Kerner with Dip Both have always been taken from the traditional bakery Kerner from the neighboring village Herxheim. A summery crème with a light lemon note acted as a light paint. Not too much of the delicious bread! I thought and did well because the amuse cellar reduced to three small things came. Three delicacies from the Kronenkoch Das ca. 2cm long Saumagen sausages throned as a defensive Palatinate on a chop of champagne wort, which still tasted just as much as 30 years ago. Along with the fingertip full of frying jus, this was a first small palate citzer that brought the top-level regional cuisine of the crown in small format to the porcelain. The famous Saumagen sausage on champagne herb... On the other hand, the duck in the Wan-Tan-Teig could not arrive tastefully, but the bite “Fernkost” ensured at least a welcome change on the plate, in whose center a foamed vegetable lush of the Extra-Abschmeck-Class waited in an espresso cup. So far, so predictable, so snarely good! In the well-cooled white wine, I also continued to prove “visibility”. A great deal of melting, gentle structure and clear burgundy aromas, these cuvée, scented with pear and honeymelon, were characterized by the wine village Kleinfischlingen, just 300 inhabitants. A good catch, as quickly turned out. Then they served my wife and me the green leafwork, which could still have been a trace more crisp. Summer leaves salad on sour cream yogurt dressing with fresh garlic, tomatoes, raw food, parmesan and croutons For this the lightly garnished yogurt sour cream dressing was delicious. The summer salad was perhaps somewhat overstretched, but tastefully without a mistake and a tadel. How was this the same with pleasure as a mixed calculation? Yeah, right. If you add the great amuse at this point and split by two, the PLV is also correct. My mother did her grandma service to our little ones with Bravour by running with her on the arm almost every corner of the Kuntz’s garden. Of course, our girl found that many utensils were toys, Tipi tent, paddling pools for the upcoming birthday party of the small daughter of the operator pair in the garden. So my wife and I were able to enjoy our lunch at least temporarily. Also worth mentioning is the fact that with a voucher from December 2020, we crossed the Christmas gift from my Mutti in the crown. Our concerns that he would have already lost his validity were quickly removed by the friendly service lady. The service must be mentioned in praise at this point. The ladies in the obligatory dirndl acted flink, routiniert and had still time to swoop around with our daughter in all the hectic. There was no need to complain about this service. There was hardly anything to complain about in my Mediterranean pasta plate with three splendour prawns from the Black Tiger sash. Roasted Black Tiger Shrimps on Tagliolini with Tomatosugo Jene left the frying pan in perfect condition and were of very good quality. Perfect fried shrimp! If there were two more copies on the plate, I would not have written a letter of appeal. A great praise goes to the tomato souvenir, which is torn before Umami. Its almost sinful fruity presence on the palate, caused by the intense aroma of fully ripe tomatoes, was quite remarkable. The band noodles were still slightly resistant to bits. On top of grated parmesan contributed additional wort. Carrot, Kohlrabi and Zucchini completed the ensemble in optimally cooked manners and were also staged in an ingenious manner. Especially the carrot carrot carrot cube held together by a zucchini strip was a real eye-catcher. In total, this gave an absolutely harmonious summer plate with amazingly much taste. Roasted Black Tiger Shrimps on Tagliolini with Tomatosugo Similarly, my wife Mama, who had tasted the homemade Ricotta spinat ravioli. Here too carrot, Kohlrabi and Zucchini censored the brazed noodle dish in the same direction. Ricotta-Spinat-Ravioli in Salbeibutter and Parmigiano Reggiano 24 months And that old Parmesan is well versed with sage butter, of course, is not a secret, but produces pure good taste. Only the size of the portion might have been a little “peacher”. For me, the Ravioli would have had more interim characters, but my mother was apparently fed up with it. When my wife ordered the crooked calf bags, I was not surprised that she sat on a hand-resistant “winter plate” when it was warm. But at the latest at the sight of the generously landscaped lake from Spätburgunder-Jus, which surrounded a magnificent hill celery puree, my initial doubts were distorted. At low-temperature swollen calf bags on celery puree and strong Spätburgunder-Jus, of course, the two calf bags, which are on top of all the additions, had the water flowing in my mouth. For tenderer meat can hardly fail. A probier tap confirmed my suspicion that this main dish would be well to handle even without using a knife. Only real failure of the day was her supplement. The handcuffed ? Late zle from the board were unfortunately totally salted. Also wondered their uninhabited deep yellow color. The salted latex with too high an egg yolk content were exchanged! There it was clearly exaggerated with the trination of egg yolk, especially since it was too lazy from the consistency. Well, these were definitely not edible and were replaced by our service lady with freshly prepared, much better-slimed goods. That this took a little time was on the hand or later in a silver bowl. We forgot a dessert due to advanced saturation and the situation with our little ones who no longer found their stay in the high chair so exciting and wanted to explore the outside area of the hotel restaurant Krone on the arm of Mom, Dad or Grandma. Thirdly, we did not fully use the voucher, which will certainly have a culinary aftertaste in autumn. Then I would perhaps venture to the five-course “Pfälzer-Stuben-Menu” 79 Euro, which admitted to me from the individual corridors, but at the warm temperatures was simply too much of the good. Finally a question to the kitchen master Fabio Daneluzzi. What prevents a young top cook with Italian roots, who, at Lockdown times, filled the perhaps best Pasta Fresca of the South Palatinate into the Take-Away box and hung perfect pizzas of the most Neapolitan style into the ready-to-be cardboard boxes, from a clearly Italian orientation of its refined regional cuisine? Standing Palatinates, such as Peter Steverding “Isenhof” from Knittelsheim, are not afraid of Burrata, Branzino, Casata Co. On this magnificent garden terrace, which acts like a Tuscan oasis in the midst of the village of Hayna dominated by crafts and tobacco sheds, an even more Mediterranean kitchen philosophy would not only be appropriate, but just to follow. Take it to your heart, Fabio and trust more Italian moments in the future! The old regulars with a pronounced somagene and Rouladen affinity are also not younger and the subsequent generation of connoisseurs is more open in this respect than you might think."