Augustin Cologne - Carta

"After I had already tried Julia Komp's cooking arts off the gourmet cuisine on the first evening in Cologne, it was magnificent for the following day that another star chef had opened a second restaurant a few days before. In Eric Werner's Augustin, there is to be brewhouse kitchen 2.0 carved classics. A telephone reservation was successful. The restaurant is accessed by an inconspicuous entrance, which is followed by a longer fluffy house corridor. This is where everything breathes. The dining room of the former Kolpinghaus for wandering craftsmen is a quite impressive stage with its high ton vault for the brewhouse approach. Dark parquet and wooden furniture stand for rusticity, in elegant dark green painted walls for elegance. The semi-high wall covering made of turquoise(! , Holzeingefassten Tile lets me think of the verbal Berlin Pauly Hall. In the middle there are larger tables all in Brauhausmanier, on the sides benches, before and on a small entrance to the left hand tables for couples and single-eating guests. Seats are covered with black artificial leather and padded thick. For this, the backrest becomes quite hard with time. Maybe I should have accepted the tip of hanging my wardrobe (yet? lack of other possibilities over the chair. Apparently, I refused because I didn't want to wipe the floor with my long coat... On the one hand, light bands inserted in the columns provide damped light in the hall. Hinguckers are, of course, the very different chandeliers already described in many cases in the net; I made 14 variants. My enthusiasm was somewhat dampened when I see that this ensemble is just somewhat different. Perhaps a statement about the impossibility of individuality in our time? Never mind. It is more important that the many lamps can hardly dampen the noise level, which, despite the audience appearing quite often, is increasing. (You know this: Because it's louder, you speak louder and that is getting stronger and more mutual... Even if you don't drive the brewhouse to the lasy Tète à Tète: Before the last walk I asked for a break and escaped regularly into the quiet foyer of the adjoining design hotel, to which there is no business connection. A treat! In the final chat with the service line, it was also said that you think about noise damping under the ceiling. Please, absolutely! Not only during the conversation, the completely black-moved service a few days after the opening made a good figure: The young man who served me mostly was initially somewhat nervous, but with increasing time friendly, flotted and conscientious. And as it turned out later, he passed on my reactions to the kitchen. After having looked around nicely undisturbed, I ordered a red-fruited Rosé Brut from the prestigious Würzburger Juliusspital for the sparkling evening accompaniment. In the well-sorted wine map there are many great names, but also many discoveries that are partly very fairly calculated. Unfortunately, Galt is not for the Frankensekt, which is offered on the net at €15, but here costs €55. Amuse has not been served conceptually, even no bread etc. The map meets the announcements: For me, some mercenary verjnöje should consist of fish sprouts, calfs terrines, sky and oath as well as Halve Hahn. Of course, no ordinary herring was rolled up for the start, but seaweed, which scored from the first bite with clear aromas (good 19€. That was pleasant and could well claim beside the filling of cornichons, inlaid, mild apple and a fine fish farm. The supplements were wonderful: pickled radishes, red wine shadings, mustard salad with a few leaves of various salads and separately a pleasantly retained potato dill cucumber salad with uncooked straw apples. As a result, quite harmonious, without being boring. On the contrary, the expectations of the taste were fully met, avoiding all (acids, salt, fish brucitalisms. And rarely enough the caviar offered as an add on (39€/20g would even have meant a culinary added value for the guest and not just for the costing of the host. I couldn't guess. Great, great start! Ordering several appetizers is risky repetitions threatening. Here not, because the terrine of the calf (18€) was pleasantly self-contained: all a tick more powerful, so that a harmony was restored on an aromatically elevated level: The layered terrines contained, according to my perception, stained tongue, snipered packets and mask. Covered by a crispy dough the pane came hot (instead of lukewarm lt. card at the table. The perfect difference between Fleischer and Bäcker. The leaf salads created a welcome “fresh” supplement here. As the main dish “natural” the (not only Rhenish classic heaven and Aege for 24€. It is often the case that the main courts in terms of creativity cannot fully compete with the Entrées. When I saw the proper portion of potato puree in the saten Soßensee, the thought “right conventional” shot me in the head and probably also over the lips. After the departure of the upper, it took three seconds until a angry young man from the kitchen first threw himself against me if I knew who he was? Well, I had a clue, but I don't have such questions in principle. This always makes the mood so beautiful... Well, at least “counted” the dedicated kitchen artist: the subtleties of the kitchen up and me out: whether I had tasted that the sauce was on a double approach and was also refined with thyme and basil. The bloodworst is Basque commodity, in the topping not only onions are used, but also a self-made onion chetney. And autumn trumpets I will find difficult in a “conventional” brewhouse. I thanked politely for the clues and left the self-confident Lord to finally dedicate me not only visually to my judgment. The dense sauce was indeed great; I felt them personally but as very salty. However, this was well damped by the fruit sweetness of Jona Gold, who was here tasted and processed as a delicious fresh Julienne. Only the mushrooms so praised were unfortunately tasty in the sauce. In the onion not only the announced variants came, but also fresh fried. The bloodworst fulfilled her task, the sweet, sour-ground dish, missing a Umami Booster, wonderful. Whether the Basque warriors understand their business better than the Rhenish, more called critics may decide... A very tasty version, of course, but quite difficult overall. Maybe something funny.... Oh, let's go. Occasionally there are cheese as an appetizer. It will, of course, be converted to dessert immediately, even if Halver Hahn is on the map. The Augustinian version of Gouda with Senf and Gurke in the Röggelchen came as a veritable Domturm: The base consisted of a thick slice of very strongly roasted land bread, whose sharp edge painted the palate of the greedy slumber. The next layer is a domestic cheese salad with fresh cucumber and paprika powder, doubled by a cam mustard with clear sharpness. Although the game with the temperature in warm roast bread and cool salad was perhaps not absolutely necessary, and I would rather have liked the soft, connecting texture of a foam or a crème. Finally, the upper end, quasi the bread lid, formed a rye bread chip. Modern ideas translated into rustic cuisine. Not too expensive at €14. Cuisine and service have almost completely convinced during my visit. The ambience is as often a matter of taste; in a happy group I would like to visit Augustin again."