"With Patrick Franke, the Landgasthof Rössle in Kirchzarten (approximately 10 km east of Freiburg, in the romantic Dreisamtal lies an extremely ambitious, yet at the same time modest and very natural patron. The house places particular emphasis on regional, seasonal and Mediterranean cuisine. Unfortunately, I have not been able to stay in the connected hotel yet, but I would like to catch up on the next occasion, because I am very excited about the very well maintained, up-to-date rooms. As part of an invitation, I was able to enjoy a wonderful three-course menu that was full of the strengths of Patrick Franke and his team. In the last few months, I have not been able to gout such a harmonious variety of aromas, consistencys, colors, textures and aggregate states on a plate, within a dish. Each food is such a clever composition and is both tasteful and visually a true pleasure. As an appetizer I had Bachsaibling with my own rye, including thin slices of gurke and ginger, accompanied by a fresh cucumber ice cream and a dull ginger mousse. The fish was buttery and extremely fresh. For the first few minutes, however, the cucumber ice cream appeared to me too much to kill the taste buds (I admit: ice is not one of my favorites... later, when something was melted, it was quite wonderfully associated with the other consistencies of this appetizer. The biggest surprise for me, however, was the ginger, which I usually find too dominant and with whose taste I often do not get so clear. Now his sharpness put a wonderful contrast on the freshness of the cucumber and the physicality of the parrot. As a topping, some crusty peanut pieces were on top – simply brilliant! So I could also dispense with the white bread served with olive pieces. I drank a fine Sauvignon Blanc from Baden-Württemberg, which once again emphasised regionality. The main course with two lamb pieces, which, however, were somewhat too red inside me, was accompanied by a potato-tree cake and exotic-looking stem cabbage and very long cooked jus. The stem cabbage apparently grows similar to green cabbage and tastes very strong-aromatic, therefore is a wonderful, rustic companion to the lamb. A kind of onion jam, which almost had the appearance of cwetschgengsälz, ensured a slightly sweet component. The biggest surprise, however, was the potato pancake: elegant, finely marbled, amazingly light. Some slices of earthy black root. Perfect. I drank a strong Barbera d ́Alba by Ruvei from 2014. Although I usually waste dessert, I tried this time. The focus was on apples in various forms of administration and expressions: as sorbet, as scattered cakes, as parfait, as jelly, as a small “snail noodle”. Here too: different colors and aggregate states and textures. And long ago not everything sweet, but also herb and crispy and serene and bite. Almost like a journey through the year and the different harvest times. A little coarsely ground cinnamon perfectly completed the different flavors and could be ribbed as a spice. To this wonderfully rounded dessert I have a great Piedmontese Moscato with a very penetrating quince aroma. All three corridors appeared to me both in a fundamentally and refined way, just as grandios composed. Here you get a high consideration for the individual ingredients of a meal. Served on very large, expansive, pearly plates, of which I found especially the curved shape that was used for the appetizer very harmonious (is certainly also well suited for soups. The service was equally open and turned to the guest, as highly professional and fully concentrated. Questions on individual ingredients or preparations could be answered immediately safely and naturally. The team seemed to be perfect. Here, the communication works with one another in an exemplary manner."
